Tenango Embroidery (Otomi Indigenous People) - Andrea Gonzalez

 

Tenango embroidery designs come from an indigenous group of people known as the Otomi living in the Central Mexican Valley. The tenango embroidery style has a history as far as “pre-Aztec Meso-America with the symbolism, iconography, and colorways of the pieces reflecting the time-honored traditions and beliefs of the Otomi people.” However, these designs are known as tenango designs because they are historically from the town of Tenango de Doria in the state of Hidalgo, where they were first commercialized.

 

The creation of this colorful design was a response to an economic downfall caused by drought that forced the already a marginalized indigenous Otomi community to find an alternative way to make money. Due to the area they live in and the fertility of the land the Otomi needed to create an alternate means to survive and with the attention they received for their designs in they began to embroider pieces with the intent to sell. Since then, embroidered designs have been simplified to be easier reproduced and sold widely on several items including pillowcases, table cloths, table runners, and clothing.

 

This embroidery still exists today and for some in the town of Tenango de Doria and surrounding towns continues to be the main source of income. However, production methods have changed, before individuals would spin and produce their threads from the fibers of the maguey plant but since then the major change in the tenango pieces is they are now being embroidered on white fabric, for commercial purposes. Because each piece is designed and done by hand, they are very time consuming and sadly not often paid fairly.

 

Today these designs have become quite popular but often credit is not given to the Otomi people or the artisans of these designs. Artisans in Hidalgo are already being haggled and paid low prices for their crafted designs but larger well-known brands have also plagiarized designs without giving credit. In 2017 Louis Vuitton released a series of chairs in which one showcased tenango embroidery designs and failed to credit the artisans for their designs. The Mexican government later called the brand out for their misconduct and the chair $18,000 was taken down. Sadly, this has not been the only case and as the popularity of this design grows there have been more instances of plagiarism in mass retailers such as Target, and other home and fashion stores.

 

 

While this form of textile design is mostly decorative it is significant because it has become known around the world and serves as an example of the creativity present among indigenous marginalized communities. These designs are done by hand and take an enormous amount of talent and time to make. As such the aesthetic of this tenango design is similar but every design is unique and varies from piece to piece. One of the things that is unique to the tenango embroidery is the Otomi designs of the pieces that feature images of plants, animals, and mythical creatures important to the Otomi people that has helped maintain and preserve the culture.

 

 

Lanks, H. C. “Otomi Indians of Mezquital Valley, Hidalgo.” Economic Geography, vol. 14, no. 2, 1938, pp. 184–194. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/141670. Accessed 10 June 2020.

 

"Mexico accuses fashion designer of cultural appropriation; Does Carolina Herrera's Resort 2020 line evoke 'the playful and colourful mood of a Latin holiday' or rip off indigenous designs?" Guardian [London, England], 13 June 2019. Gale Academic OneFile, https://link-galecom.offcampus.lib.washington.edu/apps/doc/A588873664/AONE?u=wash_main&sid=AONE&xid=d36f6a28. Accessed 10 June 2020.

 

Zillges, Haleigh, "The Genetic History Of The Otomi In The Central Mexican Valley" (2013). Anthropology Senior Theses. Paper 133

 

 

https://www.nytimes.com/2019/11/13/world/americas/mexico-tenango-embroidery.html

 

https://www.npr.org/2019/06/14/732863535/mexico-calls-out-carolina-herrera-for-appropriating-indigenous-groups-patterns

 

https://collection.maas.museum/object/416031

 

https://mexiconewsdaily.com/news/mexico-accuses-louis-vuitton-of-copying-indigenous-designs/

 

https://wondrouspaths.com/history-otomi-embroidery-patterns/

 

https://www.atlantamagazine.com/homeandgarden/things-know-otomi-embroidery/